Pur Autre Vie

I'm not wrong, I'm just an asshole

Thursday, June 26, 2008

New York Pizza - Not Available in New York

I've been told that the best New York pizza is in New Haven, but I don't know that I've ever had pizza there. The best New York pizza I've had was served by Antonio's, in Amherst, MA. I have never had pizza in New York that was anywhere close to Antonio's. And yes, I've had Grimaldi's, and I bet it used to be good. "Grimaldification" is the phenomenon by which an authentically worthwhile establishment becomes known as the one place tourists shouldn't miss, and therefore transforms into a ridiculous self-parody at which quality is irrelevant. I should note that I have no idea whether Grimaldi's was ever worthwhile. Also, in fairness, I should note that Grimaldi's serves perfectly acceptable pizza, it's just not remotely worth going to Grimaldi's to eat it. Finally, as a result of its Grimaldification, Grimaldi's is the last place actual New Yorkers would go for pizza - so its one-time authenticity turned out to be somewhat self-defeating.

Anyway, actual New York pizza is a disappointment, but I will continue to look for something that can hold a candle to Antonio's.

By the way, question for new linkee Sarang: just as the best New York pizza is not from New York, the best English writers weren't English, yes? The philosophers were all Scottish and the good writers were mostly Irish.* Discuss.

* I think I first saw this idea in Postwar by Tony Judt. Fucking English take credit for everything. I feel as though the point about Scottish philosophers is more valid than the point about Irish writers, but what do I know.

211 Comments:

Blogger Grobstein said...

I don't think it's hard to get New York pizza that's technically better than Antonio's. Antonio's is special mostly because they're very good at selecting toppings. But compare their plain cheese slice (or another ordinary slice) with Big Nick's (77 and B'way), and Nick will come out on top.

I think the basics at Antonio's are not much better than median quality.

5:32 PM  
Blogger James said...

Obviously I disagree - but part of the problem is that I haven't had New York pizza that I would describe as better than mediocre. Ben's (in the Village) is good when fresh, but I find myself liking it less and less. I will have to try Big Nick's.

5:53 PM  
Blogger Alan said...

David Hume FTW.

2:37 AM  
Blogger Alan said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

2:38 AM  
Blogger Alan said...

You should try ordering from Edwardo's; they're more likely to deliver to Park Slope than to your old Chicago address.

2:41 AM  
Blogger zbs said...

But I agree with this sentiment more largely, though it is overstated; in the sense that great pizza in New York is scarce for its size, has to be traveled to, and then likely paid dearly for—but given those conditions, it's hard to compare. The greats—who it need hardly be said handily bury anything in Western Mass.—are DiFara, Una Pizza Napoletana, Nick's (Qns), Lucali, and Franny's. And I think second-tier parlors like Grimaldis and Tottonos are also several leagues above your Antonio's or Bruno's.

But the tragedy is that in more removed places like Amherst it is possible to have a plentitude of cheap, relatively good pizza easily available; whereas the landscape in New York is littered with central-distribution fronts, which are nominally independent (though they're all called Sal's, Antonio's, Ray's, Pepe's etc.), but thanks to readily available, low-quality premade ingredients, taste about as good as Dominos. Like most non-subaltern food in the city, (this is my wonky subin for the irksome "ethnic food") the available options are maddeningly polarized: shell out or give up.

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